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The first wave arrived in Northeastern China to help build the China Eastern Railway, a southern spur of the Trans-Siberian Railroad that cut across Manchuria creating a shortcut to the port of Vladivostok. This second wave of migration arrived into an already crowded Harbin, causing a large portion to continue south to China’s commercial center of Shanghai. Many immigrants opened restaurants in Shanghai along Xiafei Road (now Middle Huaihai Road), which was then known as Little Russia. The foods served in these Russian restaurants, along with other European restaurants serving French, English and German food, were collectively known as Haipai (海派) or foreign cuisine.

The first wave arrived in Northeastern China to help build the China Eastern Railway, a southern spur of the Trans-Siberian Railroad that cut across Manchuria creating a shortcut to the port of Vladivostok. Then a succession of wars and revolutions, including World War I, the Bolsheviks Revolution, and the Russian Civil War, sent a stream of refugees to China. This second wave of migration arrived into an already crowded Harbin, causing a large portion to continue south to China’s commercial center of Shanghai. The foods served in these Russian restaurants, along with other European restaurants serving French, English and German food, were collectively known as Haipai (海派) or foreign cuisine.

Having used up all the chestnuts, I went across the street to my local Foodtown supermarket and bought another pound of chestnuts. She learned from Jacques Torres that deep frying the nuts with pellicle on in hot oil can make them easy to peel. Frustrated, I used a paring knife to remove the pellicle by slicing off the surface of the nuts, and was left with a bowl of odd shape nuts. A user on Chow Hound reported that she was so frustrated with not being able to peel her chestnuts properly she simply tossed them into her trash bin.

This year, with the upcoming first anniversary of the publication of my cookbook, Phoenix Claws and Jade Trees: Essential Techniques of Authentic Chinese Cooking, I’m expanding my celebration with a virtual feast to include my fellow North American bloggers, friends and food enthusiasts whom I consider as family. We’re cooking Red Cooked Pork, Cucumber Salad with Garlic, General Tso’s Chicken, Stir-Fried Beef with Black Pepper and Mapo Tofu. Here in Harlem for my family reunion I am making a few dishes from the book including Red Cooked Pork with steamed buns, Steamed Chicken Legs with Goji Berries, and Steamed Stripe Bass. Other dishes are variations of recipes in the book including Salt and Pepper Prawn based on Salt and Pepper Fried Fish Fillet, and Red Cooked Mushrooms and Vegetables inspired by Red Cooked Tofu.