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Scottish storyteller, writer and travelblogger, sharing the stories of Scotland with the help of a tireless labrador.
Helping people get more out of their journey through Scotland!
Graeme & Molly
Time for a wee break from Scotland's Stories! Don't expect to hear much from me over the next few days since I'll be heading to St Kilda. Those are the small group of islands around 40 miles west of the other western Isles like Lewis and Harris! They're now uninhabited but did support a community for centuries, right up until 1930. Not many people make this trip and most who do are only there on a daytrip. I've decided to camp for a couple of nights in the @nationaltrustforscotland campsite. Can't wait to bring you some of the scenery, stories and solitude from St Kilda. Pray that I get good weather! (This picture isn't St Kilda. It's Arran while on my trip to Campbeltown since I won't have any signal by the time I get across the ocean for this trip!)
Time for a wee break from Scotland's Stories! Don't expect to hear much from me over the next few days since I'll be heading to St Kilda. Those are the small group of islands around 40 miles west of the other western Isles like Lewis and Harris! They're now uninhabited but did support a community for centuries, right up until 1930. Not many people make this trip and most who do are only there on a daytrip. I've decided to camp for a couple of nights in the @nationaltrustforscotland campsite. Can't wait to bring you some of the scenery, stories and solitude from St Kilda. Pray that I get good weather! (This picture isn't St Kilda. It's Arran while on my trip to Campbeltown since I won't have any signal by the time I get across the ocean for this trip!)
St Cyrus might not look like the most exciting church in Scotland, but it's got a fantastic story to tell. Perched on the cliff above a beautiful sandy Aberdeenshire beach, the story of this church is one that is particularly fitting since I'm deep in wedding planning mode... In the early 1800s, a wedding was taking place at St Cyrus in terrible conditions. The happy couple were probably a little unhappier as they struggled through snow on their big day. A local wealthy figure called John Orr was so touched by the sight that he decided to gift the pair a substantial wedding gift. That single gift turned into a tradition for Orr that would continue after his death, but it wasn't for everybody! His will declared that the interest from his estate would be split five ways and wedding gifts would be given to the oldest, youngest, tallest and shortest brides that year! Only one gift allowed each, even if you're both young and short! The remainder was to be distributed to the poor of St Cyrus. At the start, that was a substantial amount of money for the locals, around half a year's wages for farm labourers. By the later 1900s, the value was so small that the St Cyrus Dowry was changed to an engraved vase for each bride. It's a fun tradition and as far as I know it continues to this day! #Scotland #VisitScotland #ScotlandIsNow #VisitABDN
St Cyrus might not look like the most exciting church in Scotland, but it's got a fantastic story to tell. Perched on the cliff above a beautiful sandy Aberdeenshire beach, the story of this church is one that is particularly fitting since I'm deep in wedding planning mode... In the early 1800s, a wedding was taking place at St Cyrus in terrible conditions. The happy couple were probably a little unhappier as they struggled through snow on their big day. A local wealthy figure called John Orr was so touched by the sight that he decided to gift the pair a substantial wedding gift. That single gift turned into a tradition for Orr that would continue after his death, but it wasn't for everybody! His will declared that the interest from his estate would be split five ways and wedding gifts would be given to the oldest, youngest, tallest and shortest brides that year! Only one gift allowed each, even if you're both young and short! The remainder was to be distributed to the poor of St Cyrus. At the start, that was a substantial amount of money for the locals, around half a year's wages for farm labourers. By the later 1900s, the value was so small that the St Cyrus Dowry was changed to an engraved vase for each bride. It's a fun tradition and as far as I know it continues to this day! #Scotland #VisitScotland #ScotlandIsNow #VisitABDN
This evocative memorial is known as the Emigrant's Statue, found on a wee hill above Helmsdale in Sutherland. It shows a man, woman, child and baby who are looking out to sea, forced to travel across the ocean for a new life. It was erected to commemorate all people from the Highlands and Islands who were evicted from their homes, facing no option but to travel no a new land. Generally known as the Highland Clearances, this troubling period lasted from the mid 18th right up to the late 19th century. The figures here are actually looking both forwards and back, they must have been heartbroken to leave their home as well as anxious about what they would face. A long inscription ends with the phrase "Their voices will echo forever thro the empty straths and glens of their homeland". We do often think of the Highlands and Islands as remote, empty or barren but that wasn't the case just a few hundred years ago. This is probably the most emotive as well as complicated subject in Scottish history to talk about. Historians have argued over its causes and effects for years, I'm probably not going to solve it in a 300 word post either. The sad facts are that the systems and the structures that had supported life across the Highlands had already been changing for decades. The small communities that worked in harmony and in many cases fed upwards toward a Clan Chief were being modernised and that wasn't always for the better... Chiefs became more like landlords and many decided to begin "improving" their estates. Tenants were moved from the glens out to coastal communities like Helmsdale and usually replaced with sheep. Often there simply wasn't enough good land or industry to support them on the fringes of the country, so their only option was to ship off abroad. You'll find an identical monument across the sea in Winnipeg, Canada! Around 100 of those displaced from Sutherland set sail for the New World in 1813, facing the bitter Canadian winter around Hudson Bay. They would eventually help to establish the settlement that grew into the city of Winnipeg. If you see it then let me know! #Scotland
It was going to be sad to leave Visit Moray Speyside (AD) but we still had one more day to make the most of! We spent it uncovering stories from two iconic parts of the region's history. The Buckie & District Fishing Heritage Centre is packed with stories of those who risked their lives daily to provide for their families. Best of all, those tales of the sea came straight from the mouths of volunteers who had lived it. Marlene told me how generations of her female relations had been fishwives, including her mother & grandmother. Originally, these tough women had to carry their husbands out to their boats, then gut and pack the fish before carry heavy baskets by foot around nearby towns to sell! All the while, they had no idea if their men would be coming home. Even with a radio, Marlene's father wasn't technically allowed to put a message out on public radio waves, but the skippers would broadcast a secret code or a special whistle anyway to show they were safe. The fish they caught had to be put to good use and that's where the invention of Cullen Skink came from! So I headed to Cullen itself and the The Seafield Arms Hotel - Cullen to take part in the Cullen Skink Experience. Head chef Luke put me through my paces, creating the smoked haddock and potato cream soup in the kitchen. Fuelled up, it was onto the heritage centre next door with their showstopping model of Old Cullen, a village demolished by the Earl of Seafield around 200 years ago with residents being moved to the coast. After a stop to admire Thomas Telford's 210 year old Craigellachie Bridge, I was onto my final Moray Speyside destination - Knockando Woolmill With all the sheep running about this area, it's no surprise weaving is a huge part of the heritage. Knockando has been here since at least 1784 and a guided tour takes you through both its history and every step of the process, from raw wool to finished cloth. It's a rare survival of important local history and it can only keep going as long as people carry on visiting. While you're there, you can even pick up a whole range of items made right there on these 19th century machines! #VisitMoraySpeyside
It was going to be sad to leave @morayspeyside (AD) but we still had one more day to make the most of! We spent it uncovering stories from two iconic parts of the region's history. The Buckie & District Fishing Heritage Centre is packed with stories of those who risked their lives daily to provide for their families. Best of all, those tales of the sea came straight from the mouths of volunteers who had lived it. Marlene told me how generations of her female relations had been fishwives, including her mother & grandmother. Originally, these tough women had to carry their husbands out to their boats, then gut and pack the fish before carry heavy baskets by foot around nearby towns to sell! All the while, they had no idea if their men would be coming home. Even with a radio, Marlene's father wasn't technically allowed to put a message out on public radio waves, but the skippers would broadcast a secret code or a special whistle anyway to show they were safe. The fish they caught had to be put to good use and that's where the invention of Cullen Skink came from! So I headed to Cullen itself and the @seafieldarmshotel.cullen to take part in the Cullen Skink Experience. Head chef Luke put me through my paces, creating the smoked haddock and potato cream soup in the kitchen. Fuelled up, it was onto the heritage centre next door with their showstopping model of Old Cullen, a village demolished by the Earl of Seafield around 200 years ago with residents being moved to the coast. After a stop to admire Thomas Telford's 210 year old Craigellachie Bridge, I was onto my final Moray Speyside destination - @knockandowoolmill With all the sheep running about this area, it's no surprise weaving is a huge part of the heritage. Knockando has been here since at least 1784 and a guided tour takes you through both its history and every step of the process, from raw wool to finished cloth. It's a rare survival of important local history and it can only keep going as long as people carry on visiting. While you're there, you can even pick up a whole range of items made right there on these 19th century machines! #VisitMoraySpeyside
You might think whisky isn't a morning drink, but the rules are different in Speyside! When it's the 200th birthday of The Glenlivet then you just have to raise a dram! Ad - Visit Moray Speyside Whisky is an important part of the history around this area, the sheer number of distilleries give that away. In 1824, Glenlivet was one of the first of the many illicit distillers to go legit and take advantage of more affordable licenses. George Smith wasn't popular among the other distillers for going straight though. He and his distillery were threatened so many times that he began travelling with a pair of loaded pistols to defend himself! Fortunately, I was given a drivers pack of samples so I could continue exploring the area. Not far away is Inveravon Church, one of those places that feels far older than the 1800s building would have you believe. That feeling is justified. This wee church has been rebuilt and replaced at least 3 times and a surprising discovery shows at least a 1300 year history. Under cover in a porch stand 3 early Pictish stones. No better way to ponder the meaning behind the symbols than over a bowl of championship winning Cullen Skink at the Aberlour Hotel That's a traditional smoked haddock, potato and cream soup but this one had a Black Pudding & bacon twist! Then it was on to one of the jewels in the Moray crown - Elgin Cathedral celebrating its 800th birthday this year! The Lantern of the North might be a ruin now, but it's absolutely packed full of stories. Amongst the historic carvings, effigies of bishops and Scotland's tallest Gravestone, there's a tiny room with a big story. An Elgin lady called Marjorie raised her son there 250 years ago, using an old stone sink as a crib. The boy was given a pauper's place at the Grammar School, growing up to become Major General Andrew Anderson, making a fortune in the process. He left £70,000 to house and educate 50 children, giving them all the same chance in life that he'd been lucky enough to receive! Speaking of giving children a chance, did you know that anybody with a YoungScot card gets into Historic Scotland properties for £1! #VisitMoraySpeyside
You might think whisky isn't a morning drink, but the rules are different in Speyside! When it's the 200th birthday of @theglenlivet then you just have to raise a dram! Ad - @Morayspeyside Whisky is an important part of the history around this area, the sheer number of distilleries give that away. In 1824, Glenlivet was one of the first of the many illicit distillers to go legit and take advantage of more affordable licenses. George Smith wasn't popular among the other distillers for going straight though. He and his distillery were threatened so many times that he began travelling with a pair of loaded pistols to defend himself! Fortunately, I was given a drivers pack of samples so I could continue exploring the area. Not far away is Inveravon Church, one of those places that feels far older than the 1800s building would have you believe. That feeling is justified. This wee church has been rebuilt and replaced at least 3 times and a surprising discovery shows at least a 1300 year history. Under cover in a porch stand 3 early Pictish stones. No better way to ponder the meaning behind the symbols than over a bowl of championship winning Cullen Skink at the @AberlourHotel That's a traditional smoked haddock, potato and cream soup but this one had a Black Pudding & bacon twist! Then it was on to one of the jewels in the Moray crown - Elgin Cathedral celebrating its 800th birthday this year! The Lantern of the North might be a ruin now, but it's absolutely packed full of stories. Amongst the historic carvings, effigies of bishops and Scotland's tallest Gravestone, there's a tiny room with a big story. An Elgin lady called Marjorie raised her son there 250 years ago, using an old stone sink as a crib. The boy was given a pauper's place at the Grammar School, growing up to become Major General Andrew Anderson, making a fortune in the process. He left £70,000 to house and educate 50 children, giving them all the same chance in life that he'd been lucky enough to receive! Speaking of giving children a chance, did you know that anybody with a YoungScot card gets into @HistoricScotland properties for £1! #VisitMoraySpeyside
My second day of exploring Visit Moray Speyside (Ad) was all about local history and there's plenty of it to find up here! Molly's favourite was clearly Duffus Castle, a 13th century stone motte and bailey, built on the site of an older wooden fortification. It's free to enter and somewhere that really brings history to life as you wander along the old stone road, through the once bustling bailey and up to the now ruined keep. It's also a great place for a coffee at @KulaAtTheCastle Just a 10 minute drive brings you to an even older fortification, although you wouldn't know it at first! Look past the 19th century streets of Burghead and you'll find the remains of an ancient Pictish fort - the biggest ever built! As the new village was being constructed, around 30 stones were uncovered with ornate bulls carved on them. Nobody knows exactly what they mean, but the Burghead Bulls were clearly important, possibly a cult or symbol of royalty! You can learn more about the sheer size of this 3rd century fortification and its history at the Burghead Visitor Centre. You can also pick up the key for the Burghead Well, a mysterious pool with rock cut steps leading down into it... Fuelled by a Haggis quesadilla from @cafe1496 and it's another short trip to the historic town of Forres. Molly and I were given a tour around some of the history hotspots by @forresheritage like the old Tolbooth - the heart of the community for centuries. The story of the town goes back far further than this building though, shown by the towering Sueno's Stone. It's the tallest carved Pictish stone at 6.5m high, dated to the mid 800s to commemorate some unknown battle! There's no better way to finish the day than a walk through Grant Park, gifted to the town 100 years ago by Sir Alexander Grant after he bought Forres House and tore down the 10ft walls around the private grounds. A celebration of the anniversary is planned for this August! Up Cluny Hill on the other side of the park and you'll come to Nelson's tower, built to commemorate Admiral Nelson who died at the Battle of Trafalgar. Open 2-4 and dog friendly, the view is amazing from the top! #VisitMoraySpeyside
My second day of exploring @MoraySpeyside (Ad) was all about local history and there's plenty of it to find up here! Molly's favourite was clearly Duffus Castle, a 13th century stone motte and bailey, built on the site of an older wooden fortification. It's free to enter and somewhere that really brings history to life as you wander along the old stone road, through the once bustling bailey and up to the now ruined keep. It's also a great place for a coffee at @kula_coffee_hut Just a 10 minute drive brings you to an even older fortification, although you wouldn't know it at first! Look past the 19th century streets of Burghead and you'll find the remains of an ancient Pictish fort - the biggest ever built! As the new village was being constructed, around 30 stones were uncovered with ornate bulls carved on them. Nobody knows exactly what they mean, but the Burghead Bulls were clearly important, possibly a cult or symbol of royalty! You can learn more about the sheer size of this 3rd century fortification and its history at the Burghead Visitor Centre. You can also pick up the key for the Burghead Well, a mysterious pool with rock cut steps leading down into it... Fuelled by a Haggis quesadilla from @cafe.1496 and it's another short trip to the historic town of Forres. Molly and I were given a tour around some of the history hotspots by @forresheritage like the old Tolbooth - the heart of the community for centuries. The story of the town goes back far further than this building though, shown by the towering Sueno's Stone. It's the tallest carved Pictish stone at 6.5m high, dated to the mid 800s to commemorate some unknown battle! There's no better way to finish the day than a walk through Grant Park, gifted to the town 100 years ago by Sir Alexander Grant after he bought Forres House and tore down the 10ft walls around the private grounds. A celebration of the anniversary is planned for this August! Up Cluny Hill on the other side of the park and you'll come to Nelson's tower, built to commemorate Admiral Nelson who died at the Battle of Trafalgar. Open 2-4 and dog friendly, the view is amazing from the top! #VisitMoraySpeyside
Have you ever wondered what a Scottish Highland Games is like? Visit Moray Speyside invited Molly and I along to the Gordon Castle Highland Games to show you and kick off 4 days of exploring this historic region that's packed full of stories! (AD) As well as the large pipe bands performing throughout the day, you can enjoy solo piping competitions or highland dancers competing on the stage in an impressive display of skill and stamina! Of course, everybody wants to watch the heavy events - like tossing the caber, the hammer throw or even tug of war! However, there's far more to find at the Gordon Castle Games. You'll need to eat something delicious to fuel a run around the market stalls, whether you're buying new Scottish jewellery or dog treats. Admire beautiful classic cars or even classic tractors... Then it's to the main arena for falconry shows or stunt bikes! As you can see, while Highland Games are packed full of tradition and those sporting competitions are taken very seriously, that's not the only attraction. They're an amazing day out with something for everybody and very dog friendly! Don't worry that you missed this one, there are more Highland Games in Moray Speyside coming up: Forres - 6th July 2024 Tomintoul & Strathavon - 20th July 2024 Dufftown - 27th July 2024 Aberlour Strathspey - 3rd August 2024 #Scotland #VisitMoraySpeyside #HighlandGames
Have you ever wondered what a Scottish Highland Games is like? @morayspeyside invited Molly and I along to the @gordoncastleestate Highland Games to show you and kick off 4 days of exploring this historic region that's packed full of stories! (AD) As well as the large pipe bands performing throughout the day, you can enjoy solo piping competitions or highland dancers competing on the stage in an impressive display of skill and stamina! Of course, everybody wants to watch the heavy events - like tossing the caber, the hammer throw (demonstrated here by @kilted_kyle ) or even tug of war! However, there's far more to find at the Gordon Castle Games. You'll need to eat something delicious to fuel a run around the market stalls, whether you're buying new Scottish jewellery or dog treats. Admire beautiful classic cars or even classic tractors... Then it's to the main arena for falconry shows or stunt bikes! As you can see, while Highland Games are packed full of tradition and those sporting competitions are taken very seriously, that's not the only attraction. They're an amazing day out with something for everybody and very dog friendly! Don't worry that you missed this one, there are more Highland Games in Moray Speyside coming up: Forres - 6th July 2024 Tomintoul & Strathavon - 20th July 2024 Dufftown - 27th July 2024 Aberlour Strathspey - 3rd August 2024 #Scotland #VisitMoraySpeyside #HighlandGames
There was once a farm in Perthshire called Cloichfoldich, between Pitlochry and Aberfeldy, which had the good fortune to be blessed with a Brownie. This wee creature was like most of his kind, hardworking but easily offended. He slept through the day, only appearing at dusk to happily work through chores around the farm after everybody else had gone to bed. All he took in return was a wee drink of milk as his hard-earned reward. The only other sign that this Brownie existed were the soggy footprints he left around the kitchen. That's because, unlike other Brownies, this one had a peculiar hobby. When he wasn't working the farm, he liked nothing more than jumping in and out of puddles and burns. A bit like a child enthusiastically trying out their new wellies. His nocturnal splashing had gained him a nickname around the farm - Puddlefoot. However, everybody knows that you never give Brownies a name. They were far too proud for that and disappeared at the first hint they were being disrespected or made fun of. All the farm workers made sure to talk about Puddlefoot in hushed voices in the middle of the day when he was sleeping. That was until the farmer himself went off to sell his goods at the market one day and spent most of the evening drinking away his profits. It was pitch black as he was returning home and in the darkness, he heard the sound of splashing, accompanied by a cheeky wee laugh. "Ho there, Puddlefoot! How are you doing tonight?" the drunken farmer shouted out. The Brownie was furious. "Oh, you've given me a name, have you? Puddlefoot is it? Well, you'll not see these feet ever again!" From that day on, no puddles appeared in the farmhouse and the long list of chores that used to be magically finished overnight were still there to deal with in the morning. While I don't have a picture of a Brownie at Cloichfoldich, I do have Molly at Loch Lubnaig and there's nobody better at splashing than her! #Scotland #Folklore #ScottishFolklore